Hünkar Beğendi (Sultan’s Delight)

For Hünkar Beğendi, the name already sets expectations. It means “the sultan liked it,” and refers to a much-loved Turkish comfort food that pairs a rich meat stew with a silky, smoky eggplant purée. The dish comes from the Ottoman palace kitchens, where eggplant was used with confidence and care, and where simple ingredients were turned into something elegant and deeply satisfying. Even today, it remains one of the most recognizable examples of classic Ottoman cuisine.

In my kitchen, this traditional Turkish recipe naturally shifts into something more everyday. I use a pressure cooker to cook the meat, which is definitely not how it was done centuries ago, but it fits real life and busy days. The heart of the dish stays the same though. Oven-roasted eggplants are folded into a simple béchamel, the meat is cooked gently until tender and well coated in its sauce, and nothing extra is added to distract from the main flavors. It is comforting, balanced, and still completely deserving of its name, even on an ordinary weeknight.

Ingredients

For the meat stew

• 300 g cubed lamb or beef

• 2 tablespoons olive oil

• 1 medium onion, finely chopped

• 1 teaspoon flour

• 1 tablespoon tomato paste

• 1 small tomato, grated or 100 g canned tomato sauce

• Salt

• Black pepper

• Hot water or light stock

For the beğendi (eggplant purée)

• 4 medium eggplants

• 2 tablespoons butter

• 2 tablespoons flour

• 2 cups milk, warmed

• Salt

• Black pepper

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Instructions

Start the meat base

Heat the olive oil in the pressure cooker or a heavy pot over medium heat. Add the meat and cook uncovered until it releases its juices. Continue cooking until all the liquid evaporates and the meat starts to lightly brown.

Add the onion

Once the liquid has fully evaporated, add the chopped onion. Cook until softened and lightly golden, stirring occasionally.

Build the sauce

Add the flour and stir well. Cook for about 30 seconds so the flour loses its raw taste. Add the tomato paste and cook for another minute.

Stir in the grated tomato or canned tomato sauce. Season with salt and black pepper.

Cook the meat

Add hot water just until it reaches the level of the meat, not above it.

• If you are using a pressure cooker

Close the lid and cook under pressure for 25 to 30 minutes if using lamb, or 30 to 35 minutes if using beef. Release the pressure. If needed, simmer uncovered for a few minutes so the sauce thickens and coats the meat.

• If you are not using a pressure cooker

After adding water, it should cover the meat by about 2 to 3 cm. Bring to a gentle boil, then lower the heat, cover, and cook for 60 to 75 minutes until the meat is tender. Stir occasionally and add a little hot water if needed.

For the last 10 to 15 minutes, cook with the lid slightly open so the sauce reduces naturally.

Roast the eggplants

Heat the oven to 230°C, or 220°C fan. Line a baking tray.

Pierce the eggplants in a few places and place them whole on the tray. Roast for 40 to 55 minutes, turning once halfway, until the skins are deeply wrinkled and the eggplants have fully collapsed.

Let them rest for about 10 minutes. Scoop out the flesh and discard the skins. If the flesh looks watery, let it drain briefly. Finely chop or mash until mostly smooth.

Make the béchamel

Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the flour and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly, without browning.

Slowly whisk in the warm milk and cook until smooth and thick.

Finish the beğendi

Add the roasted eggplant to the béchamel. Stir well and cook for 3 to 5 minutes until fully combined and silky. Season with salt and black pepper. The texture should be soft, smooth, and spoonable.

Serve

Spread the hot beğendi onto a serving dish or individual plates. Spoon the meat and its sauce over the center.

Serve immediately, traditionally with plain rice pilaf.